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Thursday, November 01, 2001
copied form note book: 'summer is coming, I'm in manley. I have the day off today and its Thursday. Came up last night from the coast. Slept In the flat then got up around 8:30 for a surf.had set my alarm for 6:00 but I'm not an early riser. Waves were small but perfect to practice on - practice getting up in one go. I've developed a bad habbit of kneeling before I stand which wastes time and is generally a bad idea. Standing up quick today - making progress.'
10:38 PM|
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